The City of Bristol's Backyard Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Grapes in City Spaces
Each quarter of an hour or so, an older diesel-powered railway carriage pulls into a graffiti-covered station. Nearby, a law enforcement alarm cuts through the almost continuous traffic drone. Daily travelers hurry past falling apart, ivy-covered fencing panels as rain clouds form.
This is maybe the least likely spot you expect to find a well-established vineyard. But one local grower has managed to 40 mature vines sagging with plump mauve grapes on a sprawling allotment situated between a row of historic homes and a local rail line just above Bristol downtown.
"I've seen people hiding illegal substances or whatever in those bushes," states the grower. "Yet you just get on with it ... and keep tending to your grapevines."
The cameraman, 46, a filmmaker who runs a fermented beverage company, is not the only urban winemaker. He's organized a loose collective of cultivators who produce wine from several hidden urban vineyards nestled in back gardens and community plots throughout Bristol. It is too clandestine to have an formal title so far, but the group's messaging chat is named Grape Expectations.
Urban Vineyards Across the Globe
To date, the grower's plot is the only one registered in the City Vineyard Network's forthcoming global directory, which features better-known city vineyards such as the 1,800 vines on the hillsides of Paris's historic Montmartre area and more than three thousand grapevines with views of and inside the Italian city. Based in Italy non-profit association is at the forefront of a initiative reviving urban grape cultivation in historic wine-producing countries, but has identified them all over the globe, including urban centers in Japan, Bangladesh and Central Asia.
"Vineyards assist cities stay more eco-friendly and ecologically varied. These spaces protect land from construction by creating permanent, yielding agricultural units within cities," says the organization's leader.
Similar to other vintages, those produced in cities are a product of the earth the plants grow in, the vagaries of the climate and the individuals who tend the fruit. "A bottle of wine represents the charm, local spirit, landscape and heritage of a city," adds the spokesperson.
Unknown Polish Grapes
Back in Bristol, the grower is in a race against time to harvest the grapevines he grew from a cutting left in his allotment by a Eastern European household. Should the rain arrives, then the birds may take advantage to attack again. "Here we have the mystery Polish grape," he says, as he cleans bruised and rotten berries from the shimmering clusters. "The variety remains uncertain their exact classification, but they are certainly disease-resistant. Unlike noble varieties – Burgundy grapes, Chardonnay and other famous European varieties – you need not spray them with chemicals ... this is possibly a special variety that was bred by the Eastern Bloc."
Collective Efforts Throughout Bristol
The other members of the collective are additionally making the most of sunny interludes between bursts of fall precipitation. At a rooftop garden overlooking Bristol's shimmering harbour, where medieval merchant vessels once bobbed with casks of vintage from Europe and the Iberian peninsula, Katy Grant is harvesting her dark berries from about 50 vines. "I love the smell of the grapevines. It is so evocative," she remarks, pausing with a container of grapes resting on her shoulder. "It's the scent of southern France when you open the vehicle windows on vacation."
Grant, 52, who has spent over 20 years working for charitable groups in war-torn regions, inadvertently inherited the grape garden when she moved back to the UK from Kenya with her family in recent years. She experienced an overwhelming duty to maintain the vines in the yard of their recently acquired property. "This vineyard has already endured three different owners," she explains. "I really like the idea of natural stewardship – of passing this on to someone else so they can continue producing from this land."
Terraced Vineyards and Traditional Production
A short walk away, the final two members of the group are hard at work on the precipitous slopes of Avon Gorge. One filmmaker has established more than 150 vines perched on ledges in her wild half-acre garden, which descends towards the silty River Avon. "People are always surprised," she notes, gesturing towards the interwoven grape garden. "They can't believe they can see rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."
Currently, Scofield, 60, is harvesting clusters of deep violet dark berries from lines of plants arranged along the cliff-side with the assistance of her daughter, Luca. Scofield, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has contributed to streaming service's nature programming and television network's Gardeners' World, was motivated to cultivate vines after seeing her neighbour's grapevines. She has learned that amateurs can make intriguing, pleasurable natural wine, which can command prices of upwards of £7 a glass in the growing number of wine bars focusing on low-processing vintages. "It's just deeply rewarding that you can truly create good, natural wine," she says. "It's very on trend, but really it's resurrecting an traditional method of producing vintage."
"When I tread the grapes, all the natural microorganisms come off the skins and enter the liquid," explains Scofield, partially submerged in a bucket of tiny stems, seeds and crimson juice. "This represents how vintages were historically produced, but commercial producers introduce preservatives to eliminate the wild yeast and subsequently incorporate a lab-grown yeast."
Challenging Conditions and Creative Solutions
A few doors down sprightly retiree Bob Reeve, who motivated his neighbor to establish her grapevines, has gathered his companions to pick white wine varieties from the 100 plants he has laid out neatly across two terraces. The former teacher, a Lancashire-born PE teacher who worked at Bristol University cultivated an interest in wine on regular visits to France. However it is a challenge to grow this particular variety in the dampness of the gorge, with temperature fluctuations sweeping in and out from the Bristol Channel. "I wanted to produce French-style vintages here, which is a bit bonkers," says the retiree with a smile. "This variety is slow-maturing and particularly vulnerable to mildew."
"My goal was creating Burgundian wines in this environment, which is rather ambitious"
The unpredictable local weather is not the only problem faced by grape cultivators. Reeve has had to erect a fence on